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10th September 2010

The History of Calabria

If you're looking for history and atmosphere there are few better places than Calabria in southern Italy. Bounded on three sides by the Mediterranean and a stone's throw from Sicily, its fortunes have reflected those of the great Empires. Inhabited by the Romans, Greeks, Normans and Byzantines, it has seen Empires rise and fall.

No stranger to bloodshed, this mountainous landscape is dotted by the ruins of fortresses that once guarded against marauding Turks. Placed high upon hilltops they've been the victims of earthquakes but some crumbling walls still remain. The inner valleys offered protection for ethnic minorities and the remains of villages offer clues as to how these groups lived isolated from their countrymen.

Mountain villages still exist today and their inhabitants give a unique glimpse of the way things used to be. Customs and dress have remained unchanged for centuries, and you can see a traditional way of life in practice. The language of the region is influenced by the Balkan minorities who live here, so may be unfamiliar even to Italian speakers.

Many things have been handed down through the generations in Calabria, not least of which are the numerous festivals that take place throughout the year. From patron saints to food, there is a festival to celebrate almost everything and you're likely to catch one whatever time of year you visit. There are processions, banquets and galas and many of the stories they celebrate date back centuries. The rites and rituals are as much a part of the landscape as the people themselves, but if you ask they will happily share their customs with you.

Myth and Legend

Myth and legend entwine with fact in this ancient country. The famous Straits of Messina separate Calabria from Sicily and these waters are inhabited by gods and monsters. Hercules is said to have visited this coast, and the whole area is a part of his fable. Evidence of the past is all around you and the many local museums house finds from archaeological sites across the region. Two stunning Graeco-Roman statues were found in the sea and can now be seen in the Museum of Reggio Calabria. Known as the Riace Bronzes, these impressive figures are a striking and important example of late Greek style sculpture - and are speculated to have been originally located at Delphi.

The time-encrusted cities cling to the coast as if they've grown from the rock itself. They're a part of the landscape, and nothing suggests this more than the mysterious Fata Morgana, where you can see whole towns reflected in the sea.

The coastal fortresses are perhaps the most impressive aspects of these cities, built clinging to the cliff side or out on tiny islands. Perfect as a diving point for swimmers, the salty walls have withstood the sea for centuries.

Like much of Italy, Calabria had its own ruling families and the oldest parts of the towns were built by them. In the town of Badolato, each family had its own church dedicated to a patron saint and there are no less than 13 such churches in this small hilltop settlement.

Religion would have been very important to Calabrians just like in the rest of the country, so it's no wonder the churches still attract worshippers today. Relics can be seen in some of them, and the oldest houses have architectural features that many will find interesting. Don't be afraid to ask a local if you want to know more; they'll be happy to tell you about the history of their town.

The best way to explore the history of Calabria is on foot, exploring the towns and settlements and their museums. With a guide or on your own, the myth-drenched atmosphere is sure to captivate any traveller to the region.